Franklin Levinson's
Horse Help Center
Professional support for you and your horse!
Horse runs off when going over jumps
Hello Anette,
First off, thank you for your donation to my website (and the Help Center Service). Perhaps I can offer some suggestions to assist your situation.
I am not of the 'school' that says use a bigger (more severe bit) if a horse has issues slowing or stopping at any time. A horse running off or speeding up when going over jumps is not uncommon. Many 'jumpers' struggle with this issue. The issue is that the horse was never that well trained to begin with ON THE GROUND FOR STOPPING DURING THE INITIAL STAGES OF IT'S TRAINING. Consider doing more on the ground for a while to develop the animal's stopping on a voice cue as well as developing a better and bigger bond of trust with you as it's great/trusted leader. Let me know if you do not know how to do this as usually, with English riders in particular, there is little value placed on the bond of trust developed by great leadership by the human on the ground. Additionally, if you are holding your breath (most common), breathing shallow, unconscious of holding tension in your body while riding (tightening or clenching any muscles), your horse nows this and that fact alone will make it a bit more fearful, bring up adrenalin and prompt it to get tense as well and run off. So, it is not really so much about the horse's behavior. This is a habitual response now and habits take time to change. Even for us humans, old patterns of behavior (habits), including ways of thinking, are hard to change. Hence your riding instructor's advice of using more severe equipment (very old school). It is not about the equipment so much. It is much more about the animal's initial training, current training program and the hands (skills) of the rider/handler.
I like the concept of providing a consequence for unwanted behavior as this sets up a learning situation. This is different than diciplin or punishment. A great consequence for unwanted behavior in a horse is movement, as all movement is work for a horse (for us as well). The insitant a horse does what I do not want I will put it to turns on the forehand (leg yield- yielding the hind quarters) in both directions and firmly. A couple of rotations in both directions is plenty of work for a horse. I will then allow a brief stop and walk off. I will then go back to the movement and speed I want and see what I get. It may take numerous applications of the consequence before the horse understands that if he does...(runs off, or whatever)...then he has to do the leg yields. This was he is not punished or forced but, rather, allowed to learn something. using a harsher bit makes most horses more fearful because it inflicts more pain. Truth is, it is not about the bit (only a tool). But a tool is only as good as the person using it. Any bit is only as good as the hands of the rider. You seem to be on the same page as I am about not wanting to use a more sever bit and wanting to take it more one-step-at- a-time. Good for you. I completely agree.
So, the instant your horse's energy comes up in an undesirable way or place, put it to PRACTICED turns on the forehand. You need to practice this move before you really need it. It should be as much like breathing as possible for both you and your horse. Additionally, it is sort of like a one-handed-stop. The inside rein bumps the horse's nose up and in to the inside, the inside leg comes back a bit and bumps the animal's butt in the opposite direction. Done with skill and precision, this will stop a run-a-way and assist in putting a horse's atttention back on the rider during a scary situation when the animal loses focus. Get good at it before you need it. Practice in an area a lot first.
Another thing to try is to simply begin to ride small circles (as small as possible) at as slow a trot as possible, immediately and right after going over a jump. Rather than simply stopping, which actually teaches the animal to stop after jumping....as small as possible circles, at a slow trot, conditions the animal to slow down right after jumping. This needs to be done enough times so it becomes a habit (and that is a lot). This can take several months. All training (horse or human) should never be rushed, nor should we expect too much too quickly from our horses (or ourselves). There is no quick fix. It is your responsibility to consciously breath, develop the best seat and use of hands and legs as possible. If your breath is neglected, do not expect any training to work for your horse. Actually it is more about you than the horse. If you clench any muscles (even the little ones) your horse will know it and that will prompt a reaction that you do not want.
Keep me posted and let me know how this all works. I have been working with Grand Prix riders, eventers, etc. with very good results. I am generally the only 'cowboy hat' within miles of the English facility. If you think there may be interest in my brand of compassionate, wisdom and trust (rather than force) based horemanship, I would love to come to Switzerland. I am currently doing 7 countries a year teaching. I shall be in Greece (beginning Tuesday evening) until the end of July and access to Switzerland is easy. If your current 'trainer' would not get too bent out of shape by having a 'cowboy hat' in the vacinity, I would love to come there. Hosting me is easy. Please let me know if you would like more information about this possibility. I can work privately with you and/or put on a clinic/seminar over a weekend, 3-5 days or even a one-day. All it would take is 8-10 horse/human pairs. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on all I have written here. Do not expect total results from your horse too fast. However, that being said, consistently doing small circles or turns on the forehand right after a jump will quickly condition him to pay attention to what happens right over a jump. You should see improvement within a reasonable length of time if you are skillful in how you ride the horse.
I hope to hear back from you.
Sincerest regards, Franklin
Hello Anette,
First off, thank you for your donation to my website (and the Help Center Service). Perhaps I can offer some suggestions to assist your situation.
I am not of the 'school' that says use a bigger (more severe bit) if a horse has issues slowing or stopping at any time. A horse running off or speeding up when going over jumps is not uncommon. Many 'jumpers' struggle with this issue. The issue is that the horse was never that well trained to begin with ON THE GROUND FOR STOPPING DURING THE INITIAL STAGES OF IT'S TRAINING. Consider doing more on the ground for a while to develop the animal's stopping on a voice cue as well as developing a better and bigger bond of trust with you as it's great/trusted leader. Let me know if you do not know how to do this as usually, with English riders in particular, there is little value placed on the bond of trust developed by great leadership by the human on the ground. Additionally, if you are holding your breath (most common), breathing shallow, unconscious of holding tension in your body while riding (tightening or clenching any muscles), your horse nows this and that fact alone will make it a bit more fearful, bring up adrenalin and prompt it to get tense as well and run off. So, it is not really so much about the horse's behavior. This is a habitual response now and habits take time to change. Even for us humans, old patterns of behavior (habits), including ways of thinking, are hard to change. Hence your riding instructor's advice of using more severe equipment (very old school). It is not about the equipment so much. It is much more about the animal's initial training, current training program and the hands (skills) of the rider/handler.
I like the concept of providing a consequence for unwanted behavior as this sets up a learning situation. This is different than diciplin or punishment. A great consequence for unwanted behavior in a horse is movement, as all movement is work for a horse (for us as well). The insitant a horse does what I do not want I will put it to turns on the forehand (leg yield- yielding the hind quarters) in both directions and firmly. A couple of rotations in both directions is plenty of work for a horse. I will then allow a brief stop and walk off. I will then go back to the movement and speed I want and see what I get. It may take numerous applications of the consequence before the horse understands that if he does...(runs off, or whatever)...then he has to do the leg yields. This was he is not punished or forced but, rather, allowed to learn something. using a harsher bit makes most horses more fearful because it inflicts more pain. Truth is, it is not about the bit (only a tool). But a tool is only as good as the person using it. Any bit is only as good as the hands of the rider. You seem to be on the same page as I am about not wanting to use a more sever bit and wanting to take it more one-step-at- a-time. Good for you. I completely agree.
So, the instant your horse's energy comes up in an undesirable way or place, put it to PRACTICED turns on the forehand. You need to practice this move before you really need it. It should be as much like breathing as possible for both you and your horse. Additionally, it is sort of like a one-handed-stop. The inside rein bumps the horse's nose up and in to the inside, the inside leg comes back a bit and bumps the animal's butt in the opposite direction. Done with skill and precision, this will stop a run-a-way and assist in putting a horse's atttention back on the rider during a scary situation when the animal loses focus. Get good at it before you need it. Practice in an area a lot first.
Another thing to try is to simply begin to ride small circles (as small as possible) at as slow a trot as possible, immediately and right after going over a jump. Rather than simply stopping, which actually teaches the animal to stop after jumping....as small as possible circles, at a slow trot, conditions the animal to slow down right after jumping. This needs to be done enough times so it becomes a habit (and that is a lot). This can take several months. All training (horse or human) should never be rushed, nor should we expect too much too quickly from our horses (or ourselves). There is no quick fix. It is your responsibility to consciously breath, develop the best seat and use of hands and legs as possible. If your breath is neglected, do not expect any training to work for your horse. Actually it is more about you than the horse. If you clench any muscles (even the little ones) your horse will know it and that will prompt a reaction that you do not want.
Keep me posted and let me know how this all works. I have been working with Grand Prix riders, eventers, etc. with very good results. I am generally the only 'cowboy hat' within miles of the English facility. If you think there may be interest in my brand of compassionate, wisdom and trust (rather than force) based horemanship, I would love to come to Switzerland. I am currently doing 7 countries a year teaching. I shall be in Greece (beginning Tuesday evening) until the end of July and access to Switzerland is easy. If your current 'trainer' would not get too bent out of shape by having a 'cowboy hat' in the vacinity, I would love to come there. Hosting me is easy. Please let me know if you would like more information about this possibility. I can work privately with you and/or put on a clinic/seminar over a weekend, 3-5 days or even a one-day. All it would take is 8-10 horse/human pairs. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on all I have written here. Do not expect total results from your horse too fast. However, that being said, consistently doing small circles or turns on the forehand right after a jump will quickly condition him to pay attention to what happens right over a jump. You should see improvement within a reasonable length of time if you are skillful in how you ride the horse.
I hope to hear back from you.
Sincerest regards, Franklin